Many aquarists neglect the need for calcium, electrolytes, magnesium along with the effect of a proper KH (Carbonate firmness) in their freshwater aquarium. KH is actually the buffering capacity of your aquarium, a Kh above 60 ppm helps prevent sudden comes in ph (You can change dH [German hardness] ppm by multiplying your dH by 17.9). The vast majority of important with livebearers, goldfish, Cameras cichlids, brackish and many other freshwater bass. The production of Nitrates (nitric acid) will slowly reduce your ph, but a proper KH will keep a more stable ph. This is important to note, if your KH is low and your ph may be dropping, a large water transform (don’t get me wrong, water changes are VERY important) can cause stress on your bass, or even kill them.

KH

One more consideration of KH is that you can generally securely add the buffers (both water and saltwater) that result KH without sudden changes in biochemistry (unless your KH is under 80 ppm already), as opposed to a direct ph or GH adjust. For this reason you do not always have to evaluate your KH before adding buffers for instance Wonder shells.

Baking Pop (Sodium Bi-Carbonate HCO3-), is often used for KH, Sea salt Bi-Carbonate will buffer at 8.0 to 8.2. They are very good at buffering as well pH. Just a little carbonate will take in free H+ ions, and this causes alkalinity (which is the lack of H+ ions). To stop the carbonate ions out of consuming too much H+ and to keep a pH of 7.2 we need to restrict the amount of Baking Soda used, as it is often looking for H+ ions to consume. This is why I favor using Calcium based items, Wonder Shells being this first choice, aragonite my minute.

Back to baking soda, it is deemed an old stand by method good fact that baking soda really does raise pH and kH, the catch is there is much new research to exhibit that calcium, magnesium, electrolytes and Redox play a more important role in aquatic chemistry than just ph or basic kH alone. Regrettably the aquatics hobby is full of aquarist (particularly forums or uninformed LFS) in which regurgitate this old information with out checking the facts.

A proper KH may also have a positive effect on the actual aquarium Redox Potential, which recent reports have shown to be more important to fish and other animal health than pH. Proper electrolyte equilibrium contributes to the Redox reduction prospective of water, maintaining an even more stable water environment, far better clarity and the excess electrons fix themselves to free radicals, improving disease resistance.

If you have quite a unstable KH level (drops rapidly), look into causes such as a wide range of decomposing organic material. The more organic break down (de-nitrification), the more chemicals produced. Some filters otherwise cleaned regularly can cause this specific; including canister, UGF, and Wet/Dry.

GH

Typical hardness (GH) refers to the dissolved awareness primarily of magnesium as well as other mineral ions. Both Calcium and magnesium are crucial for proper internal osmotic procedures in fish (and invertebrates). Alternative ions can contribute to water firmness but are usually insignificant in addition to difficult to measure. When striper are said to prefer “soft” or maybe “hard” water, it is GH, not the kH that is being referred to. GH is not going to directly affect pH although “hard” normal water is generally alkaline due to some relationship of GH and kH. A high GH inside freshwater can cause respiration issues in fish, for a basic freshwater aquarium a GH amongst 50-100 ppm is best (lower for Discus, higher for mollies/ African Cichlids).

Mineral magnesium is important in SMALL quantities for proper osmotic functions inside fish.

Magnesium is better added the proper balance with calcium (which both are essential to the other for proper utilization), in these products as Wonder Seashells or aragonite sand in a small carrier in the filter (although the eventually is not as reliable).

CALCIUM CARBONATE:

Calcium carbonate in your aquarium will keep a more stable Kh, while magnesium is another important element that works along with calcium. A proper amount of Calcium and Magnesium in your aquarium will affect the fish’ health positively. Besides helping keep a stable Kh, magnesium plus calcium have been shown to increase resistance to degenerate diseases by decreasing the acidity in the body. This will help using prevention of ich, fungus, and common “wear and tear” in your fish. Calcium supplements also helps in healing and anxiety, and without proper calcium stages healing may be difficult or perhaps impossible. The addition of antibiotics (for example Tetracycline) will lower calcium assimilation.

Another note about calcium mineral; Calcium is very important to appropriate discus health, yet calcium might adversely affect the pH of any discus aquarium, which is generally kept at a pH below 7.5. I have successfully used calcium (Wonder Shells or Calcium mineral Polygluconate) in discus aquariums by using a combination of RO (Reverse Osmosis) water and plain faucet water (dilution will vary depending on your tap and tank water details). I then add electrolytes to the RO waters and add peat towards the filters. I have used this method productively with discus and added the appropriate calcium with no pH climb up.

Other needs for limescale:

• Calcium is a vital component inside blood clotting systems plus helps in wound healing.

• Limescale helps to control nerve televison broadcasting, and release of neurotransmitters.

• Calcium mineral is an essential component in the output of enzymes and hormones that will regulate digestion, energy, along with fat metabolism.

• Calcium aids you to transport ions (electrically charged allergens) across the membrane.

• Calcium is critical for muscle contraction.

• Lime scale assists in maintaining all tissues and connective tissues in the body.

Other needs for Magnesium:

• Usual calcium balance in bodily organs

• Healthy muscles

• Healthy sensation problems transduction

• Healthy calcium balance with blood vessels

ELECTROLYTES;

Electrolytes are molecular substances comprising free ions which behave as a strong electrically conductive medium. In striper (or other living things) the primary ions with electrolytes are sodium (Na+), potassium (K+), calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++), chloride (Cl-), phosphate (PO4—), and hydrogen carbonate (HCO3-).

Fish and also other aquatic life forms demand a subtle and complex electrolyte balance relating to the intracellular (inside the cell) and additional cellular (outside the cell for example plasma membranes) environment. Particularly, the maintenance of precise osmotic gradients of electrolytes is important. These gradients affect as well as regulate the hydration of your fish, blood pH, and also disease resistance and are necessary for proper nerve and muscle function.

Salt is commonly utilised in a dose of one tablespoon per 5 gallons (20 liters) within freshwater aquariums. This is one way so as to add some electrolytes, but this should ‘t be the only (Wonder Shells increase many other electrolytes). Salt also will help in disease prevention as it will be the generation of the slime jacket (or Mucous) on fish since salt acts on the osmotic incline. But care needs to be given with salt sensitive bass such as catfish not to exceed this specific amount. Another aspect of salt is that although it aids in the actual prevention and even treatment of Fresh water Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis), it is poor treatment for the complete blown infection despite many anecdotal comments by many.

With regard to MUCH more on the effects of electrolytes and funtions in freshwater and saltwater:

FACTS ABOUT ELECTROLYTES AND CALCIUM;

1 . All fish require calcium mineral and electrolytes, including discus, bettas, tetras and other soft water fish. In fact the issue of electrolytes and calcium is a large problem for poor health in bettas and also discus.

* It is possible to have satisfactory calcium and electrolytes without elevating pH to a harmful level for discus, bettas and other fish in which generally prefer low pH water (many discus breeders inside LA keep there discus pH higher than in the wild at any rate).

Wonder Shells:

A product known as a “Wonder Shell” will help with your calcium, this mineral, and Kh of your aquarium. I like them over crushed reefs, as from my practical experience, the calcium contained in crushed coral does not dissolve easily enough (I have seen African cichlid fish tanks with 2+” of crushed coral drop in ph coming from 8.2 to 7.4 and in some cases some marine, without satisfactory water changes).

Wonder Back also come in a medicated type for control of aquarium ich plus fungus.

Here are a few of their characteristics:

* Helps keep aquarium clear

* Maintains stable ph

* Adds necessary mineral deposits (electrolytes)

* Removes chlorine

1 . Great for Goldfish, livebearers, cichlids, and more

- Contains Calcium carbonate; sodium thiosulfate; key, minor, and trace things including magnesium sulfate. Magnesium as well as calcium been proven to help seafood (and humans) during strain and to help prevent disease due to acid buildup in the body.

For further and a picture of the pH size see our full document below: